Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
I am pretty much a surfing poser. I fell head over heels in love with the beach at first glance at 5 years old, and my first crush was not of a real boy but a slick photo of a blonde tousled haired, tanned skin surfer boy that I ripped out of some glossy Tween magazine and hung on the back of my closet door. I still vaguely remember the photo with the beach and sand in the background and I still pretty much have a crush not only on that boy in that photograph but on the ocean behind him. I’ve always wanted to learn to surf and it still very high up on my list of things to do in life, but of course being landlocked makes that difficult. I’m not a poser in the sense that I go out and buy surf gear and clothing to carry around with me, BUT I do have a healthy obsession/fascination with all things surfing and since I can’t actually get out to the waves every day I spend a great deal of time reading surfing memoirs and watching surfing documentaries. This book was written by lifelong surfer who is also a writer for the New Yorker. I personally loved this book because it chronicled his entire surfing career starting from California & Hawaii as a child and the following the wave to the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, San Francisco and finally New York. It is not only a book about surfing but a book about the Earth, travel, friendship, and becoming who you are. Incidentally this book won the Pulitzer Prize for biography/autobiography in 2016, so don’t just take my word for it here, as I am not the only one who thinks it is wonderful!